Product Support

E-P1

Select the topic that best matches your question: 


Can I adjust the sound level the shutter release makes?

This model has a true Focal Plane Shutter so the sound you are hearing is the actual sound of the shutter physically opening and closing.  It is not possible to alter the volume of the shutter sound.

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What are the main features of the E-P1?

The Olympus Pen E-P1 is designed for today's visual generation who live active lives online and offline. It blends the high-quality imaging of a digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera with High Definition (HD) video capture, stereo Linear PCM audio recording and creative in-camera multimedia tools in an ultra-compact body. No longer do you have to choose between powerful and portable; the EP-1 will make you re-think what a small camera can do.

As Olympus' first Micro Four Thirds camera, the E-P1 introduces many technological breakthroughs.

Start with the impressive form factor. Olympus leveraged its expertise in miniaturization and engineering to create a slimmer body, replacing the optical viewfinder and mirror box found in traditional, bulky DSLRs with a 100% accurate, 3-inch, full color HyperCrystal LCD. The stainless steel body is durable and fashioned in a retro-chic styling that pays homage to Olympus' innovative and beloved PEN series. So solid and compact, it slips comfortably into a jacket pocket or handbag to take on any spontaneous adventure.

By reducing the lens mount diameter, Olympus has also enabled the production of smaller and lighter lenses. In fact, all of the E-P1's accessories - like the FL-14 flash - are scaled to match the diminuitive body.

Don't be fooled by its small stature. The E-P1 uses the same size sensor as the E-30 and E-620 DSLRs, and it has all the features you'd expect from a high-performance DSLR.

Its 12.3 megapixel Live MOS image sensor delivers excellent dynamic range, accurate color fidelity and a state-of-the-art amplifier circuit to reduce noise and capture fine image details in both highlight and shadow areas.

The 11-point autofocus (AF) system provides numerous setup options and accurate autofocus in low-light situations.

Olympus' proven Supersonic Wave Filter (SSWF®) dust-reduction system makes it easy to change lenses anywhere without worrying about dust ruining a shot.

The E-P1 boasts Olympus' most advanced anti-blur technology: Sensor Shift Image Stabilization. This technology is built into the body of the E-P1 so it works with every lens, unlike legacy film technologies that are built into individual lenses.

With the new Live Control function, icons appear on the LCD, making it easy to compose, edit and shoot pictures or videos without stopping to navigate menus. While you're composing, choose from a variety of aspect ratios so you never lose resolution to cropping.

The E-P1 also has six Art Filters that can be used to achieve creative, artistic effects, such as mimicking pinhole and pop art photography or the look of grainy film. The filters can be applied to still images and to video, and you can preview the effects on the Live View LCD before shooting. What you see is what you'll get.

HD video capture and stereo audio recording will add such richness to your home movies that you'll want to share them on your favorite social networking site or blog.

Once you've captured your works of art, seamlessly mix your still images and videos in-camera to create a multimedia slide show. Dub in one of the available background music options to provide a soundtrack for your cinematic creation, and play it back in the camera or on any HD television. (HDMI cable not included).

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What types of memory cards does the E-P1 accept?

The E-P1 accepts SD and SDHC memory cards up to 16 GB capacity. Cards with a speed class of 6 are required to record movies with the E-P1.

Memory cards are optional accessories and must be purchased separately. Olympus does not manufacture SD or SDHC media.

For a list of memory cards that have been tested and are known to be compatible with the E-P1, please click here.

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What is the composition of the camera body?

The camera body is stainless steel.

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Is the E-P1 body splashproof?

No, the camera is not designed to be used in extreme environmental conditions. The Olympus E-3 would be more appropriate for use in severe conditions.

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The E-P1 features Live View. What is it and how does it work?

The Live View feature allows you to use the LCD monitor to compose shots or to shoot while viewing an enlarged display on the monitor.

Live View uses the Imager AF system to secure focus. Using IMAGER AF, autofocus is acquired via contrast detection. The camera searches 11 AF targets to find the one that contains the greatest contrast and then focuses on it. Typically, this will identify the subject nearest to the lens.

The shooting sequence is as follows:

  1. Pressing the shutter button halfway activates contrast detection using the image on the sensor.
  2. When the focus is locked, the AF confirmation mark is displayed briefly in the upper right corner of the LCD. If the AF confirmation mark blinks, focus could not be obtained. Re-compose the shot, then press the shutter button halfway to try again.
  3. When the shutter button is fully depressed, the shutter fires, and the image is captured.
  4. The image is displayed on the LCD screen.
  5. The shutter reopens, and Live View is restored.

IMAGER AF can only be used with Micro Four Thirds system lenses and Four Thirds system digital lenses that have compatible firmware.1

Compatible lenses can be identified by their AF confirmation mark. For compatible lenses, the AF confirmation mark looks like this: . The AF confirmation mark used with other Four Thirds system lenses looks like this: .

It is possible to pre-select a specific AF target,. Doing so reduces shutter lag2 because the camera does not need to search for a subject in all AF targets. When selecting an AF target, choose one that contains an area of contrast. If the camera is unable to detect contrast (e.g., if the selected AF target is facing a stark white wall), it may not be able to take a picture.

To select a specific AF target, press the [OK] button to access the super control panel. Use the arrow buttons to select the AF Area icon.

While in Live View mode, it may be desirable to enlarge the display of the subject on the LCD monitor. This is especially useful when using a Four Thirds system lens that is not compatible with IMAGER AF and/or when focusing manually because it makes focus confirmation and adjustment easier. If necessary, adjust the focus by rotating the focus ring. (AF MODE must be set to S-AF + MF or MF).

To view an enlarged display while using Live View, press the [INFO] button and then turn the main dial until a green box is displayed in the center of the LCD screen. Using the arrow buttons to move the box around the screen, select an area to enlarge. Press the [OK] button to enlarge the selected area. (The magnification can be toggled between 7x and 10x by turning the sub dial.) Press the [OK] button to cancel the enlarged display.

1 To view a list of compatible lenses, click here. Depending on the date of the purchase, a compatible model may require a firmware update in order to support high-speed IMAGER AF. In the future, Olympus may add high-speed IMAGER AF support to other Zuiko Digital lenses via firmware updates.

2Shutter lag can also be minimized by acquiring and locking the autofocus prior to pressing the shutter button.

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Why doesn't the E-P1 have a built in optical viewfinder?

The E-P1 does not offer a traditional viewfinder because of its compact size. The VF-1 is an available accessory viewfinder that attaches to the hot shoe of the E-P1. The VF-1 is intended for use with the 17mm M.Zuiko Digital lens.

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What is the origin and meaning of the Supersonic Wave Filter (SSWF)? Where does the dust go?

The filter is so named because it shakes dust of the image sensor using supersonic wave vibrations. The displaced dust is affixed to dust-collection components around the filter.

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Is it necessary to clean or change the dust-collection components?

It is not necessary to clean or change the dust-collection components under normal use for several years. The dust-collection system can easily handle the particles that are dislodged by the supersonic wave vibrations. If the camera is used constantly in severe conditions, Olympus recommends that the camera body be sent to an authorized Olympus repair service center approximately at an interval of three to five years.

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What are the advantages of lenses that are specifically designed for digital camera use?

Although the small size of the individual pixels in CCD, CMOS, and Live MOS image sensors enables them to capture even more detail than film, the sensitivity of the sensor elements is highly directional. That is, they respond best to light that strikes the elements straight on. With lenses designed for use with film, the light rays passing through the periphery of the lens strike the image sensor at an angle, and this tends to degrade picture quality at the periphery of the image area. On the other hand, lenses developed specifically for digital cameras are designed to match the imaging characteristics of CCD, CMOS and Live MOS sensors, ensuring high image quality at both the center and the periphery of the frame.

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Can I preview the adjustments I make to camera settings on the Live View LCD monitor?

While setting up a shot, changes made to the (exposure compensation) and WB (white balance) settings are displayed on the Live View LCD monitor so their effects can be checked before shooting. The effects are previewed in all shooting modes, including those in which the camera automatically adjusts exposure and/or white balance. LIVE VIEW BOOST must be set to OFF.

When LIVE VIEW BOOST is set to ON, the camera automatically adjusts the brightness level and displays the subject on the monitor for easier confirmation. The effects of exposure compensation adjustments are not shown on the monitor.

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Why am I unable to see the Custom Menu options?

The Custom Menu can be used to personalize camera settings and operations. This menu is not visible by default to prevent unintentional adjustments. To view the Custom menu, set the MENU DISPLAY in the Setup Menu to [ON].

  1. Press the [MENU] button to display the menu.
  2. Use the and buttons on the keypad to select , and then press .
  3. Use and to select MENU DISPLAY, and then press .
  4. Use and to select ON, and then press the [OK] button.

 

 

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What are the purposes of the different record modes?

Record modes allow photographers to quickly and conveniently vary the quality settings used to capture and save images in-camera. While it is possible to always shoot at the higher-quality settings and process the images down to lower file sizes later using a computer, it may be more convenient in some situations to shoot at other than the higher-quality settings. For example, it may be preferable to shoot using a lower-quality settings when the shots are intended for use on the Internet, where small size is more important than rich detail.

The E-P1 offers several record modes, whose benefits are outlined below.

  • RAW:This is the highest-quality record mode available in the E-P1, and it allows the photographer the most creative control in post-production. Images are saved to the memory card from the camera sensor with minimal image processing. Factors such as white balance, sharpness, contrast, and color are unchanged so they can be modified later on a computer. Some photographers prefer to shoot RAW all the time for all subjects, while others may shoot RAW in situations that pose complicated exposure problems.

    Each camera manufacturer has its own version of RAW tailored to its cameras; therefore, special software is required to process RAW files and convert them to other image file formats. OLYMPUS Master® and OLYMPUS Studio® contain RAW processing and conversion software for the Olympus RAW format, which bears the file extension *.orf. Third-party imaging software and operating systems may use RAW plug-ins or updates to process Olympus RAW files. Without them, they would not be able to read RAW images from Olympus digital cameras. Most photo kiosks, printers, and photo labs cannot read unconverted RAW images.

  • JPEG: Four record modes in the E-P1 create compressed JPEG image files. When the camera processes a captured JPEG image and saves it to the memory card, it uses algoritms to discard some of the data to make the file size smaller. The process of mathematically reducing a file's size by discarding some of its data is called compression. The greater the compression ratio, the more data will be discarded and the smaller will be the file size. When the image is opened on a computer, the JPEG algorithms reconstruct the discarded data.

    The E-P1 allows photographers the option to customize the four JPEG record modes by mixing and matching their quality settings. The factors that define a JPEG record mode are images size (determined by pixel count -- that is, literally, the number of pixels in an image) and compression ratio.

    The table below shows all of the combinations of image size and compression ratio available in the E-P1.


    Customization of the quality settings is performed via the option, which is found in the menu. Pixel counts are expressed as either L (Large), M (Middle) or S (Small). The PIXEL COUNT menu item, also in menu , further customizes the M and S settings by offering a choice of display resolutions.

  • RAW+JPEG: Four record modes in the E-P1 save both a RAW and a JPEG image when a picture is taken. This can be advantageous when shots are intended for use in multiple media or when the medium in which the images will ultimately be published has not been determined.

    The quality settings used to process the JPEGs in the RAW + JPEG record modes are tied to the quality settings defined for the four JPEG record modes. The first RAW + JPEG record mode uses the JPEG settings of the first registered JPEG record mode; the second RAW + JPEG record mode uses the JPEG settings of the second registered JPEG mode; and so on. Changing the JPRG settings via the and PIXEL COUNT menus affects both a JPEG record mode and its RAW + JPEG record mode "counterpart."

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Why isn't there a TIFF Record Mode like in my other Olympus cameras?

TIFF files are very large files that take longer to write to the memory card and fill up the memory card more rapidly than RAW or JPEG files. A TIFF file in the E-P1 would be about 36 MB. It is more efficient to shoot in RAW and save the RAW conversion as a TIFF file, using the OLYMPUS Master® or OLYMPUS Studio® applications.

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What is the purpose of IMAGE ASPECT?

The IMAGE ASPECT function is used to change the aspect ratio (horizontal-to-vertical ratio) of images when taking pictures using Live View. The default aspect ratio is 4:3, which is the aspect ratio of the imaging sensor.

The E-P1 provides four aspect ratio options. This allows the photographer to pre-visualize and shoot for specific print formats. For example - if the assignment were to shoot an event that will be printed as albums of 4 x 6 inch prints, the image aspect ratio would be set to 3:2. If the assignment were to shoot cover art for a CD sleeve, 6:6 would be selected since this would yield square images.

The table below shows the aspect ratios that are available in the E-P1, the image size options for JPEG images captured using each ratio, and usage recommendations. The image that follows illustrates the shapes of images captured at each aspect ratio. Select the one that best fits the expression and purpose of the images.

4:3 4032 x 3024 / 2560 x 1920 / 1280 x 960 Default; the aspect ratio used by the imaging sensor
3:2 4032 x 2688 / 2544 x 1696 / 1296 x 864 The aspect ratio of 35mm film; 4 x 6-inch prints
16:9 4032 x 2272 / 2560 x 1440 / 1280 x 720 The aspect ratio of HDTV and widescreen TVs
6:6 3024 x 3024 / 1920 x 1920 / 960 x 960 Square aspect ratio, medium format camera

When a non-default aspect ratio is selected, JPEG images are cropped and recorded using the selected aspect ratio. When the JPEG images are reviewed in Playback mode or in OLYMPUS Studio 2 or OLYMPUS Master 2 software, they are displayed at the cropped dimensions.

RAW images are not cropped, but the aspect ratio information is recorded to the digital files with the image data at the time of shooting. When a RAW image is reviewed in Playback mode or in OLYMPUS Studio 2 or OLYMPUS Master 2 software, the uncropped image data is shown overlaid by a template, or frame, based on the selected aspect ratio. The frame is provided as a reference so you can preview the effect of applying the crop.

Note: The aspect ratio information stored with RAW images can be used to crop the images in the camera (via the EDIT menu) or in the OLYMPUS Studio 2 or OLYMPUS Master 2 software. The software may require an update to recognize the saved aspect ratio information.

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What are MULTIPLE EXPOSURE and IMAGE OVERLAY?

MULTIPLE EXPOSURE and IMAGE OVERLAY are options built into the E-P1 that enable multiple images to be combined and saved as a single image (two images and three images, respectively).

MULTIPLE EXPOSURE, located in the menu, is used at the time of image capture -- for example, to add a telephoto shot of the moon to a night skyline shot.  Two RAW or JPEG shots can be combined into one image.  (The record mode is fixed after the first shot in the sequene.) You can also select a stored RAW image and shoot additional RAW or JPEG exposures to overlay onto the stored image. The record mode used to capture the overlaying exposure(s) will determine the file format of the final, combined image.

IMAGE OVERLAY, located in the > EDIT menu, is used to combine up to three RAW images previously saved on a memory card.

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What is the purpose of the Scene mode?

The E-P1 has a Scene mode that optimizes the camera settings for specific shooting conditions. All of the settings applied in the 19 available Scenes can also be applied via controls in the camera menu, but applying them manually can be time-consuming.  In addition, amateur photographers may not have a deep enough knowledge of photography to select the appropriate settings for some situations that advanced amateur and professional photographers would employ.

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What are the Art Filters?

Art Filters enable the application of creatve effects in-camera while shooting. The Art Filters are:

  • POP ART - Increases the saturation of bright colors.
  • SOFT FOCUS - Diffuses the image.
  • PALE & LIGHT COLOR - Softens the contrast in highlights and shadows.
  • LIGHT TONE - Brightens and softens the color.
  • GRAINY FILM - Simulates the look and contrast of high speed 35mm film.
  • PIN HOLE - Simulates the look of a pinhole camera with soft edges and vignetting.

When the Art Filters are in use, the Super Control Panel is inactive.

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Is it possible to "undo" an Art Filter after it has been shot?

No. However, if the camera's Record Mode is set to RAW + JPEG, only the JPEG image will be processed by the camera using the selected Art Filter. The RAW image will not be processed by the camera other than to perform the lossless compression. If you decide after taking the shot that you prefer a different effect, you can still use the RAW image to post-process the shot to your taste.

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What is the purpose of the LEVEL GAUGE?

The LEVEL GAUGE displays how level the camera is with respect to pitch (horizontal alignment) and roll (vertical alignment) This can be a useful tool where it is important that image be level and the vertical lines are square, such as in architectural photography or copy photography of hanging paintings. The function is enabled in the menu and is one of the information screens on the LCD brought up by pressing the [INFO] button and then turning the main dial until the indicator bars appear.

>

The indicator bars are superimposed over the image on the LCD screen. The bars automatically realign themselves when the camera is held in a vertical orientation. When the camera is level, both indicator bars on the LCD screen turn from white to green.

PITCH ROLL

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In the White Balance menu, what do all those numbers followed by a "K" mean?

The color balance of different light sources in the color spectrum is rated numerically by color temperature in the standard Kelvin (K) temperature scale. A color temperature value is expressed as a number followed by a “K,” for Kelvin.

The chart below shows approximate values of different light sources in the E-P1's White Balance menu:

  • 5300K - Use for shooting outdoors on a clear day, or to capture the reds in a sunset or the colors in a fireworks display.
  • 7500K - Use for shooting outdoors in the shadows on a clear day. The light in shadows areas is bluer, so this setting compensates for the color shift.
  • 6000K - Use for shooting outdoors on a cloudy day. This setting makes the color slightly warmer in tone.
  • 3000K - Use for shooting under tungsten light. This setting keeps the images from coming out with a yellow color cast.
  • 4000K - Use for shooting under white fluorescent lighting.
  • 4500K - Use for shooting under a neutral white fluorescent lamp.
  • 6600K - Use for shooting under a daylight fluorescent lamp.
  • 5500K - Use for flash shooting.

Color temperature settings can be applied in situations for which they are not intended for creative effects. For example, a tungsten setting can be used on a cloudy day to produce a surreal effect suggesting cold.

The Custom White Balance (CWB) settings in the White Balance menu allow photographers to select more accurate color temperature settings. Many commercially available lamps are labeled with color temperature ratings that fall between 3000K and 4000K, so a photographer is able to set up the camera for more accurate color rendition.

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With so many White Balance settings available, why and when should I use One-Touch White Balance?

There are many light sources and situations that are not covered by Auto White Balance or the other settings in the White Balance menu. There are many noncontinuous light sources that do not have all of the colors of the spectrum, such as fluorescent, mercury vapor, and sodium vapor lights. There are also situations in which many different types of lights are used in one environment. These do not neatly fit into what the camera firmware knows about white balance, so it is necessary to “educate” the camera about the specific light balance by shooting a white reference subject such as a white card and saving the data in the White Balance menu as a One-Touch White Balance.

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In the PICTURE MODE > MONOTONE menu feature, what is the purpose of the B&W Filter options?

In black-and-white film photography, different colored filters are placed in front of the lens to modify the tones in the final image. These are called contrast filters. One popular effect created with contrast filters results in a landscape photograph with majestic clouds against an almost black sky. This effect is obtained by shooting through a deep red filter, which makes the blue in the sky darker.

A general rule of thumb regarding the use of contrast filters is: The filter makes its own color lighter in tone and its opposite color darker in tone.

The E-P1 is able to create these effects without using physical filters by modifying the performance of the red, green and blue color channels in the MONOTONE mode.

The functions of the B&W filters are described below:

  • RED - The red filter darkens blues and greens and lightens reds. In landscape photography, it produces dark skies that make clouds look more dramatic. The red filter can also cut through atmospheric haze to some degree. It can be used in portraiture to diminish skin blemishes on light-skinned people.
  • YELLOW - The yellow filter darkens the blue in the sky so clouds separate from the sky without producing the dramatic effect of the red filter. Many black and white photographers routinely keep a yellow filter on their camera because the effects appear more natural than those of other filters. In copy photography of old documents, the yellow filter brightens the look of yellowed paper.
  • ORANGE - The effect of the orange filter falls midway between that of the red and yellow filters.
  • GREEN - The green filter lightens plants in images. It will also make red subject matter darker and add contrast to sunsets.

The B&W Filter effects can be previewed on the Live View screen before shooting.

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Can Shadow Adjustment Technology be applied while I'm shooting?

Yes. Shadow Adjustment Technology (SAT) can be enabled for shooting by selecting the AUTO option from the > GRADATION menu.

When AUTO is selected, the image is divided into detailed regions of brightness and the brightness of each region is adjusted separately. This is effective for images with long contrast ranges in which the highlights may appear too light and the shadow areas too dark.

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Does the E-P1 have a programmable Custon Function button?

The [] button just above and to the left of the arrow key pad on the camera back is the E-P1’s Custom Function button. To change the function assigned to [], do the following:

  1. Press the [MENU] button.
  2. Press the Down Arrow button repeatedly until (Custom Menu) is selected.
  3. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the Custom Menu.
  4. Press the Down Arrow button to select  BUTTON/DIAL, and then press the Right Arrow button.
  5. Use the arrow pad to select the Custom Function menu item. It looks like this: FUNCTION
  6. Press the Right Arrow button to view the Function menu. Use the arrow pad to scroll through the functions that can be assigned. The available functions are:
    • OFF – This option disables function allocation.
    • Fn FACE DETECT - This is the default factory setting for the Custom Function button. Press the [] button to turn on FACE DETECT and enable the optimum settings; press it again to turn off FACE DETECT.
    • PREVIEW (electronic) – This is used to check the depth-of-field while viewing the Live View image on the LCD screen. When [] is pressed, the camera will stop down to the selected f-stop.
    • (One-Touch White Balance) – This function is useful when you need a more precise white balance than preset White Balance can provide. When this function is registered to [], the optimum white balance for the shooting conditions can be saved in the camera by photographing a white piece of paper under the light source that will be used in your shot. While holding down [], press the shutter button once. Press the [] button to register the white balance. The setting is retained until a new custom white balance is registered by repeating the procedure.
    •  - Press [] to switch to the registered AF home position. Press this button again to switch to the original AF target mode. 
    • MF - Press [] to switch AF mode to MF. Press the button again to switch to the original AF mode.
    • - Press [] to toggle the record mode between a JPEG mode and its RAW+JPEG counterpart. (The JPEG settings are determined by the and PIXEL COUNT functions.) You can also switch to any record mode by turning the sub dial while holding down [].
    • TEST PICTURE – This enables a photographer to shoot a picture and see it on the monitor without saving it to the memory card. This can be useful in a studio situation where it would be desirable to shoot setup tests and not use up space on a memory card. Simply hold down [] while shooting.
    • MY MODE – If a photographer has registered special settings in MY MODE SETUP, this option allows the photographer to apply those settings without having to go into the menu. Instead, simply hold down [] and shoot.
    • BACKLIT LCD – Press the [] button to turn the LCD off. This function is useful when using the optional optical viewfinder (VF-1). Press [] again to turn the monitor back on.
  7. Press [] to activate the selection, and then press [MENU] to exit the menu.

The functions of the [AEL/AFL] and the [] buttons can be interchanged. To swap them:

  1. Press the [MENU] button.
  2. Press the Down Arrow button until  is selected.
  3. Next, press the Right Arrow button to enter the Custom Menu.
  4. Press the Down Arrow button to select  BUTTON/DIAL, and then press the Right Arrow button.
  5. Use the arrow pad to select the function swap icon, which looks like this:
  6. Press the Right Arrow button to enter the sub menu. Select ON to have AEL/AFL functions performed when [] is pressed, and vice-versa.

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What are the differences among the three Image Stabilizer options?

The Image Stabilizer has the following three options:

  • I.S. 1 - The Image Stabilizer corrects for camera shake on both the horizontal and vertical planes.
  • I.S. 2 - The Image Stabilizer only corrects for vertical camera shake. This is to allow a photographer to use a low shutter speed and pan horizontally for creative effect. Situations in which this technique can be applied include tracking rapidly moving subjects such as flying birds, running wildlife, racing cars and athletes with the intention of blurring the background for a visual effect in the image. The result would be a sharply defined subject against a blurred background that might otherwise appear cluttered.
  • I.S. 3 - The Image Stabilizer corrects for horizontal camera shake when the camera is being panned up or down, such as when following a diver from a diving board to a pool.

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For how many steps of shutter speed does the Image Stabilizer compensate?

The effect of the image stabilizer is equivalent to up to four shutter speed steps, according to Olympus' testing conditions. The value varies depending on the lens and shooting conditions. For example, when you shoot at a shutter speed of 1/15, the Image Stabilizer compensates for camera shake equivalent to 1/250.

Note: Image stabilization may not be possible at very low shutter speeds or when the camera is severely shaken.

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Where can I find the documentation for this camera?

The E-P1 is packaged with a printed Instruction Manual. The documents can also be downloaded in PDF format by clicking here.

Adobe Reader® is required to view the PDF files. The software is available as a free download from Adobe's web site.

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How do I update the firmware in the E-P1 camera body and Olympus' M.Zuiko Micro Four Thirds lenses?

Firmware updates of Olympus Micro Four Thirds system-compatible digital camera bodies and lenses are performed using OLYMPUS Master® or OLYMPUS Studio® software. Each version of the software has an Update Camera function that is used to initiate the update procedure.

Below are the locations of the update functions in the various software versions:

  • OLYMPUS Master 2.x: In the Browse window’s toolbar, click on Update/Language.
  • OLYMPUS Studio 2.x: In the Browse window’s toolbar, click on Update/Language.

Before updating, mount an Olympus M.Zuiko Digital lens to the camera body and set the camera body’s USB MODE to STORAGE. Connect the camera to a computer via its bundled USB cable. The computer must be connected to the Internet because the download and installation are managed online from an Olympus server. The camera battery should be fully charged. When these prerequisites are met, launch the software and click on the update function.

The update process will first poll the camera and lens to determine what firmware versions are currently installed. It will then ask if you want to search for newer versions. If a newer version is found, you will be prompted to perform the update. Step-by-step instructions will guide you through the process.

Follow the on-screen instructions carefully. If you deviate from the instructions, the firmware installation may not complete and the firmware may become corrupted. If this occurs, the camera will have to be sent to an Olympus Repair Service Center to have its firmware replaced. Do not do a firmware update during a storm or when there is a risk of losing power because this will also cause a corrupted firmware installation.

Once the firmware is updated, it is not possible to go back to a previous version.

You can check the firmware version of your camera and lens at any time when the camera is not connected to a computer. Open the menu, go to the menu, scroll to FIRMWARE and toggle right. The LCD will display the firmware version for the camera body and the currently mounted lens.

Lenses can be upgraded individually using the same update process even if the camera body already has the most current firmware. Mount a different lens on the body and repeat the update process as though you were updating the camera body.

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How can I turn off the LCD monitor?

It may be desirable at times to turn off the Live View LCD. For example, photographers may wish to do so when composing shots using the optional VF-1 optical viewfinder. This is accomplished by setting the BACKLIT LCD function to OFF.

For convenience, the BACKLIT LCD function can be assigned to the [] button, which is located just above and to the left of the arrow key pad on the back of the camera. Once assigned, simply press the [] button to turn off the LCD and press it again to turn it back on when you want to resume shooting using Live View.

To assign the BACKLIT LCD function to the [] button, do the following:

  1. Press the [MENU] button.
  2. Press the Down Arrow button repeatedly until (Custom Menu) is selected.
  3. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the Custom Menu.
  4. Press the Down Arrow button to select  BUTTON/DIAL, and then press the Right Arrow button.
  5. Use the arrow pad to select the Custom Function menu item. It looks like this: FUNCTION
  6. Press the Right Arrow button to view the Function menu. Use the arrow pad to scroll down to BACKLIT LCD and select it.
  7. Press [] to activate the selection, and then press [MENU] to exit the menu.

Note: The functions of the [AEL/AFL] and the [] buttons can be interchanged. To swap them:

  1. Press the [MENU] button.
  2. Press the Down Arrow button until  is selected.
  3. Next, press the Right Arrow button to enter the Custom Menu.
  4. Press the Down Arrow button to select  BUTTON/DIAL, and then press the Right Arrow button.
  5. Use the arrow pad to select the function swap icon, which looks like this:
  6. Press the Right Arrow button to enter the sub menu. Select ON to have AEL/AFL functions performed when [] is pressed, and vice-versa.

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How do I insert a memory card in the E-P1?

To insert the memory card into the E-P1, power off the camera and then do the following:

  1. Open the card cover using the battery/card compartment lock.
  2. Allow the card compartment cover to open completely.
  3. Orient the SD card as shown below. The card's contact area should be at the end of the card pointing into the camera and should face the same direction as the camera's LCD.
  4. Insert the card into the card slot. Push the card gently straight in until it clicks.
  5. Close the card compartment cover, and then push it until it latches shut.

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How do I insert the BLS-1 battery into the E-P1?

To insert the battery into the E-P1, power down the battery and do the following:

  1. Open the card cover using the battery/card compartment lock.
  2. Allow the compartment cover to open completely.
  3. Orient the battery as shown below. Insert the battery into the slot. Push the battery gently straight in until it clicks.
  4. Close the compartment cover, and push it until it latches shut.

To remove the battery, power down the E-P1 and do the following:

  1. Open the card cover using the battery/card compartment lock.
  2. Allow the compartment cover to open completely.
  3. Pull down the battery lock knob, and then pull out the battery.
  4. Close the compartment cover, and push it until it latches shut.

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How is the Enlarged Display operation used in Live View?

The Live View Enlarged Display option provides and enlarged view of a selected area in the image to facilitate fine manual focus.

When Live View is enabled, pressing the [INFO] button reveals a green target area that is to be enlarged in the center of the LCD screen. The target area can be repositioned to another area of the image by using the arrow keys on the camera back. Pressing the [OK] button causes the target area to be enlarged.

The degree of magnification can be set to 7x or 10x by turning the Main Dial. Pressing the [OK] button again will return the image on the LCD screen to the normal viewing size.

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Sometimes when I turn off the camera, I feel a slight vibration or hear a noise. Why is that?

When the camera is powered down, slight vibration and noise occur as the Image Stabilization motor resets the image sensor to its default position. The E-P1 takes this action when shooting with the Image Stabilizer function set to I.S. 1, I.S. 2 or I.S. 3. In these modes, the camera moves the sensor during shooting in order to counter the effects of camera shake. When the power is turned off, the camera moves the sensor back into the default position.

When Image Stabilizer is set to OFF, the sensor does not move during shooting and so does not need to be reset. However, if shooting with a zoom lens, some noise may still be heard when the camera is powered off as the lens resets its focus to infinity.

If both Image Stabilizer and Lens Reset are set to OFF, the camera will power down in silence.

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I have a lens from another manufacturer that has built-in optical image stabilization. Will I get more image stabilization if I mount it on the E-P1 and enable its Image Stabilizer?

In such a scenario, it is recommended to use one or the other, but not both image stabilizers simultaneously. If both lens and body image stabilization are being used at the same time, the combination may be counter-productive because the camera image stabilization would be trying to compensate for the lens image stabilization and not be able to arrive at a stabilized image.

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What are the P, A, S and M modes and how are they used?

The P, A, S and M modes are exposure modes. These exposure modes allow the photographer creative flexibility by enabling more control over shutter speed and f-stop settings while shooting. The exposure modes enable total access to the menu options, unlike the AUTO and Scene exposure modes found in Olympus consumer DSLRs.

Briefly, the exposure modes and their applications are as follows:

  • P (Program shooting) – This mode allows shooting using an aperture and shutter speed set by the camera. However, the Program Shift function allows some creative control. When powered on with this mode selected, the camera displays P in the upper left of the LCD monitor. Rotating the Main Dial or Sub Dial changes the P to Ps, which is Program Shift. This permits the selection of a shutter speed or aperture other than the default while maintaining the same exposure. If a higher shutter speed is selected, a wider aperture will be set. If a slower shutter speed is selected, a smaller aperture will be set. In effect, it is an AUTO mode that accepts input from the photographer.
  • A (Aperture Priority shooting) – This mode allows the aperture to be set manually, thereby giving the photographer control over depth-of-field. This mode also uses Program Shift, so the photographer can select any aperture in the range of the lens by rotating the Main Dial or Sub Dial. The camera compensates for the exposure by changing the shutter speed automatically as the f-stops are changed. If the shutter speed/aperture combination will result in under- or overexposure, the exposure values in the viewfinder and on the Super Control Panel screen will blink.
  • S (Shutter Priority shooting) – This mode allows the shutter speed to be set manually, thereby giving the photographer control over stopping action or reducing camera shake. This mode also uses Program Shift, so the photographer can select any shutter speed in the range of the camera body using the Main Dial or the Sub Dial. The camera compensates for the exposure by changing the aperture automatically as the shutter speeds are changed. If the shutter speed/aperture combination will result in under- or overexposure, the exposure values in the viewfinder and Super Control Panel screen will blink.
  • M (Manual shooting) – This mode allows the photographer to set the shutter speed and aperture independently. Program Shift is not applied in this mode. Manual mode is invaluable to photographers using studio electronic flash systems and manual hot shoe electronic flashes because it allows the user to set the correct sync speed for flash and set an f-stop determined by a flash meter reading or test.
    In the Manual shooting mode, the shutter speed is set using the main dial and the aperture is set using the sub dial.

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The E-P1 has four focusing modes. Which should I use?

The four focusing modes are provided to offer the photographer greater flexibility in setting up the camera for diverse shooting situations. Any of the focusing modes that have an MF in their designation allow the photographer to adjust the focus by turning the focusing ring on the lens.

  • S-AF (Single AF) – Every time the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera focuses. This mode is suitable for taking pictures of still subjects or subjects with limited movement.
  • C-AF (Continuous AF) – The camera continuously refocuses as long as the shutter button is held down halfway. When the subject is in motion, the camera focuses on the subject in anticipation of its movement using Predictive Autofocus technology. When shooting in the Sequential Shooting Drive mode, Continuous AF resumes after a burst of images when the shutter button is returned to the halfway position.
  • MF (Manual Focus) – The lens is focused manually by rotating the lens focus ring. Still life and landscape photographers may prefer this focus mode as it allows more creative control. Turn the focus ring and the view will switch to zoom display automatically. You can de-activate the zoom display in the Custom Menu. You can select the rotational direction of the focus ring to suit your preference for how the lens adjusts to the focusing point.
  • S-AF+MF (Simultaneous use of the S-AF and Manual Focus) – This mode allows the photographer the option of fine adjusting the focus using the lens focus ring after the shutter button has been pressed halfway and autofocus has been locked. This mode allows the photographer more creative control over the autofocus to focus on a specific area the autofocus may not have selected. If the shutter button is pressed again after fine-adjusting the focus with the focus ring, the AF is activated and your adjustments are cancelled.

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The subject I want in focus doesn't line up with any of the AF targets on the LCD screen. How do I get the camera to focus on the subject?

The Focus Lock function enables the photographer to prefocus on a specific subject, lock the focus, and then re-compose the image and shoot the picture.

  1. Position the AF frame on the autofocus subject and press the shutter button halfway until the AF confirmation mark lights up. The focus will be locked.
  2. While holding the shutter button in the halfway position, recompose the image and press the shutter button all the way to shoot the picture.

At first this may seem cumbersome, but with practice it can become a fluid movement.

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The focus does not change when I turn the focus ring on the lens. Why not?

The manual focus ring will only function when it is activated. Choosing a focusing mode with MF options, such as MF or S-AF+MF, will activate the manual focus ring.

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Is there a way to shoot if I don't want to wait for autofocus to lock or the flash to recycle?

Normally, the E-P1 will not shoot while autofocus is operating or the flash is charging. However, situations may arise where the photographer would want to override the camera and force it to fire under marginal shooting conditions when the camera may not be ready to shoot.

The Shutter Release Priority function will permit the camera to shoot even though normal shooting requirements are not met. The function is found in the menu under RELEASE/ (Custom Menu C). Two options are available:

  • RLS PRORITY S: Set to ON to enable the camera to fire immediately, without waiting for focus confirmation, in the S+AF autofocus mode.
  • RLS PRIORITY C: Set to OFF to force the camera to secure focus before firing in the C+AF autofocus mode.

Be advised that overriding the camera creates special considerations. Shooting before the flash has recycled may cause images to be underexposed if ambient light is insufficient to illuminate the subject. Shooting before autofocus has locked may result in blurry images, particularly when the subject is in motion. To compensate for the loss of autofocus, increase the depth of field by shooting with the smallest aperture that is practical for acquiring the shot.

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In the CARD SETUP menu, the options are ALL ERASE and FORMAT. What is the difference between these two settings?

ALL ERASE deletes all of the images from the memory card directory except for those that have been protected. FORMAT deletes all of the images from the memory card directory and overwrites the directory. In both cases, the actual digital images are still on the memory card until new images are shot that overwrite the old images. Therefore, if images are inadvertently erased or formatted, it may be possible to retrieve them via image recovery software.

If ALL ERASE is used exclusively to delete images, over time a buildup of artifacts in the directory may corrupt the memory card. The FORMAT option is recommended to preserve the integrity of the memory card and extend its useful life.

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How do I use the different metering modes?

The E-P1 provides several metering options that allow the photographer to have greater creative control over exposure.  The metering modes can be set via the Live Control screen (pictured), The Super Control Panel or the camera menu.

Descriptions and applications of the metering modes are detailed below:

Digital ESP metering is recommended for general use.  The E-P1 measures and calculates the light differences in 324 separate areas of the image. The mode can be changed to ESP+AF in the menu to center the metering on one of the three AF frames seen in the camera viewfinder.
Center Weighted Averaging metering provides average metering between the subject and the background lighting, placing more weight on the center of the frame. Use this mode to prevent the light level of the background from affecting the exposure value of the main subject.
Spot metering meters an area of about 2% of the frame around the center AF frame. This mode can be used to meter a backlit subject. Spot metering must be used very carefully because the brightness of the subject area that the metering spot is centered on can dramatically influence the final exposure.
HI Spot metering performs the same as Spot metering but compensates toward overexposure, allowing accurate white reproduction. For example: with normal Spot metering, snow would be captured as grey rather than white. The HI Spot Metering compensates so that the snow would appear whiter in the exposure.
SH Spot metering is the inverse of HI Spot metering and compensates toward underexposure to keep dark areas from exposing lighter toward grayness. An example would be photographing a black cat on a light background. SH Spot metering would underexpose the cat so that it would expose as black rather than gray.

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What is the purpose of Exposure Compensation?

Metering systems in cameras measure light but do not have a way of determining what the subject matter is, so the exposure decisions the metering system makes may not always be appropriate for the subject matter. This phenomenon is called subject failure. As with Spot metering, the human touch may be required to arrive at correct exposures. Exposure Compensation allows the photographer to set up the camera to under- or overexpose in specific situations.

The Exposure Compensation scale is displayed on the LCD’s control panel.

It is important to set the compensation back to 0 before shooting subjects in other conditions so the subjects will be properly exposed. When the Exposure Compensation is set to 0, the scale is not displayed in the Control Panel screen.

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How do I select which ISO setting to use?

Think of the ISO values as film speeds. Low ISOs such as 100 and 200 are better suited to situations in which there is a lot of light – outdoors scenes. ISOs 400 and 800 would be used outdoors where there is plenty of light and fast shutter speeds are desired – sports and air shows, for example – or indoors for available light shooting. ISO 1600 and above would be used where there are very low light levels, such as indoors or at night.

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How does the E-P1 combat noise commonly found at high ISOs?

Digital cameras vary the light sensitivity of the image sensor by varying the gain voltage applied to the sensor, much like turning up the volume on a stereo. When the gain voltage is increased, as it is when shooting with higher ISOs, the sensor becomes hot. Hot pixels perform differently under extreme conditions. The result is a graininess known as “noise.”

Noise occurs whenever sufficient heat has built up on the image sensor. Therefore, it can also be seen in images with long exposures, such as night photographs, due to the additional heat generated by charging the sensor for an extended period of time. All digital cameras include technologies to minimize the effects of noise. The E-620 uses a sensor that dramatically decreases noise. In addition, it combats noise with two methods: NOISE FILTER and NOISE REDUCTION.

The NOISE FILTER function is found in the menu. It has four options: OFF, LOW, STANDARD and HIGH. The majority of digital cameras have a default noise filter that is always on. Some photographers feel that this reduces detail, so Olympus has included the option to not use a noise filter at all.

If NOISE FILTER is set to OFF, it is recommended to set the SHARPNESS setting to –2. If  SHARPNESS is set to 0 it may exaggerate the noise when no noise filtering is being applied.

The NOISE REDUCTION function can also be enabled from the menu. After the first exposure, the camera makes a second exposure of equal length with the shutter closed. It then, in effect, overlays the two images, finds the hot pixels in the second image (essentially, any pixels that aren't black) and deletes the corresponding pixels from the first image. This doubles the shooting time. If the first exposure is 12 minutes 30 seconds, the second, black exposure will also be 12 minutes 30 seconds for a total exposure time of 25 minutes.

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I shot in the RAW format and I need a JPEG image, but I'm away from my computer. How can I convert the RAW files to JPEGs in the field?

The E-P1 has a RAW editor in the camera menu that allows the photographer to not only convert the RAW file to a chosen JPEG record mode, but also to apply white balance, sharpness, contrast and color adjustments in the converted JPEG image.

To edit a RAW file in camera:

  1. Press the [MENU] button. Select the and then select the PICTURE MODE and (Record Mode) settings to be applied to the RAW image to be edited, if any.
  2. Exit the manu by pressing [MENU] again.
  3. Press the [WB] button. Set the white balance value to be applied to the RAW image, if desired.
  4. In the playback mode, select the RAW image to be edited.
  5. Open the menu, select the third tab (Edit), select EDIT and then toggle right. The RAW image to be edited will be displayed.
  6. Press the [OK] button,
  7. In the RAW DATA EDIT screen, select YES and then press OK.

A JPEG copy of the RAW image that reflects the settings selected in the menu will be saved to the memory card. The RAW image remains unchanged.

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How do I attach the accessory optical viewfinder (VF-1)?

Olympus offers an accessory optical viewfinder for the E-P1 that is intended for use with the 17mm M.Zuiko Digital lens.

If you use the optical viewfinder, you can view the shooting scene in the finder. This is convenient when you are in a bright location, such as under driect sunlight, where it may be difficult to view the monitor.

To attache the VF-1 accessory optical viewfinder, do the following:

  1. Slide off the hot shoe cover, and store it in a safe place to avoid losing it.
  2. Align the VF-1 optical viewfinder with the hot shoe on the camera body, and slide it in until it stops. Push only the lower portion of the viewfinder.
  3. Turn on the camera, and select [BACKLIT LCD]. This function is available from the menu, and it must be assigned to either the Fn or button.

Notes: View frame is equivalent to 17mm. Use the display frame in the viewfinder as a guide for the shooting range. Check the correct shooting range on the LCD monitor.

The optical viewfinder cannot be used at the same time as the electronic flash.

When carrying the camera, do not hold it by the optical viewfinder. The camera may seperate from the optical viewfinder and drop.

Do not leave the finder or the camera with the finder attached in a location subject to direct sunlight.

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Can I use my Four Thirds Digital SLR lenses on the E-P1?

Four Thirds system-compatible digital SLR lenses can be mounted on the E-P1 with the optional MMF-1 Adapter, sold seperately. The MMF-1 Four Thirds System Lens Adapter enables all Olympus ZUIKO Digital lenses as well as Four Thirds System lenses from Sigma, Panasonic and Leica to attach to the E-P1.

To purchase MMF-1 Adapter (item #260050) from the Olympus Store, click here

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Can I use my OM Series 35mm SLR lenses on the E-P1?

Olympus OM-series lenses can be mounted on the E-P1 with the optional MF-2 OM Adapter. OM-series lenses are unable to communicate with the firmware in the camera's body. Therefore, their use in this fashion has the following restrictions:

  • Autofocus is not available.
  • OM- series autofocus lenses cannot be manually focused.
  • Stop-down metering is used.
  • Spot metering does not work properly.
  • Although it is possible to use the A (Aperture priority AE) shooting mode in auto exposure, the aperture display is not available.
  • The aperture display in the M (Manual) shooting mode is not available.
  • In P (Program Auto) or S (Shutter Speed priority) shooting mode, the shutter releases, but the auto exposure control does not work.
  • The distance scale on the OM-series lens may not indicate the actual distance. Use the Live View screen (or optional viewfinder VF-1) for focusing.

Because the OM-series lenses were designed for film rather than for use with a digital sensor, the image quality may not equal that produced by M.Zuiko® Digital and Zuiko® Digital lenses.

To purchase the MF-2 OM Adapter (Item #260051) from The Olympus Store, click here.

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Does the Image Stabilizer function in the E-P1 work with Olympus OM-series lenses?

The Image Stabilizer function in the E-P1 can be applied to OM-series manual lenses.

The Image Stabilizer function must know the focal length of the attached lens in order to apply the correct compensation to the sensor when the camera senses camera shake. Zuiko® Digital lenses, being "smart" lenses, automatically provide this information from the firmware in the lens to the firmware in the camera body. Manual lenses contain no electronics, so focal length information must be entered manually by the photographer.

The MF-2 OM Lens Adapter is required to attach an OM-Series lens to the Four Thirds® mount on the E-P1. To purchase the MF-2 OM Lens Adapter (Item 260051) from the Olympus Store, click here.

To set the focal length of an OM-Series lens do the following:

  1. Open the IMAGE STABILIZER screen using the Live Control, Super Control Panel or camera menu.
  2. Press and release the [] button.
  3. Set the focal length using the Sub Dial or the Up or Down arrow keys, and then press the [OK] button.

The focal length settings available in the E-P1 are shown below:

8 mm 10 mm 12 mm 16 mm 18 mm 21 mm
24 mm 28 mm 30 mm 35 mm 40 mm 48 mm
50 mm 55 mm 65 mm 70 mm 75 mm 80 mm
85 mm 90 mm 100 mm 105 mm 120 mm 135 mm
150 mm 180 mm 200 mm 210 mm 250 mm 300 mm
350 mm 400 mm 500 mm 600 mm 800 mm 1000 mm

Do not take into account the 2x magnification factor applied in the Four Thirds system; enter the actual focal length of the lens being used. If the attached lens has a focal length that is not shown on the chart, please select the closest value.

The focal length setting cannot be entered manually when a Four Thirds or Micro Four Thirds system lens is attached.

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What Flash Accessories are compatible with the E-P1?

The following E-System flash accessories are fully compatible with the E-P1:

  • FC-1 Macro Flash Controller
  • RF-11 Ring Flash
  • TF-22 Ring Flash
  • FL-14
  • FL-20
  • FL-36
  • FL-50

The following E-System flash accessories may also be used with the E-P1:

  • FL-36R
  • FL-50R

Note: Wireless mode is not available when using these models with the E-P1.

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Can I use my Olympus FL-40 external flash on the E-P1?

The Olympus FL-40 external flash is not compatible with the E-P1 because it was not designed to work with the TTL firmware in the camera.

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I have a third-party electronic flash. Can I use it on the E-P1?

Flash units that are not part of the Olympus E-System may pose problems if used on the E-P1.

Thyristor-type flash units can be used with the E-P1’s Manual shooting mode as long as the sync voltage does not exceed 6.5 VDC. Third-party TTL flash units will not have TTL capability but possibly may be used with Manual exposure control. Olympus can only guarantee the operation of Olympus flash units.

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Can the E-P1 use a flash with shutter sync speeds higher than 1/180th of a second?

The optional FL-36, FL-36R, FL-50 and FL-50R flash units have a Super FP Flash mode which enables flash sync at shutter speeds higher than 1/180th of a second. This is accomplished by the flash emitting what is essentially a very high-speed stroboscopic “flicker” flash, rather than a single flash of light. Situations in which this would be desirable would be fill-flash outdoors in bright sunlight where high shutter speeds would be needed.

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Can I use the E-P1 with my studio flash equipment?

The E-P1 uses an electronic rather than mechanical sync circuit that is rated at 6.5 VDC maximum sync voltage. Also, the polarity of the studio flash sync pulse may be opposite the polarity of the E-P1 sync circuitry.

Studio flash equipment should be connected to the E-P1 using the Safe Sync Hot Shoe to PC Sync Adapter. The adapter protects the camera from excessive sync voltage up to 400 VDC, and automatically corrects sync pulse polarity.

This item (#200329) may be purchased from authorized Olympus dealers and also online directly from The Olympus Store. To order from The Olympus Store, click here.

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Does the E-P1 support the Olympus wireless RC flash system?

No. The E-P1 does not have a built-in flash and therefore cannot serve as the trigger flash to remotely fire slave flashes.

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How many images can be shot on a single charge of the BLS-1 lithium-ion rechargeable battery?

Although the number of images that can be captured depends upon the shooting conditions and the camera functions used, a fully charged BLS-1 battery should take approximately 300 images before it needs to be recharged.

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Do I need a voltage converter to use my battery charger outside the U.S.?

The BCS-1 Battery Charger for the E-P1 is rated at 100-240 VAC and automatically adjusts itself for the local electrical current. However, you may have to get a set of plug adapters for the different wall outlets used in foreign countries. Plug adapter kits are available at electronics and luggage stores.

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What accessories are avilable to remotely control the E-P1?

The RM-UC1 Remote Cable Release (item #260237) is available for use with the E-P1. The RM-UC1 connects to the Mulit Connector on the right side of the camera.

The RM-UC1 remotely triggers the camera's shutter button, and can be used for long (BULB) exposures such as night photographs. The camera can be set to release the shutter immediately or 12 or two seconds after the shutter button on the RM-UC1 is pressed.

The RM-UC1 is available from authorized Olympus dealers and also online directly from The Olympus Store. To order the RM-UC1 from The Olympus Store, click here

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How can I take long (BULB) exposures using the optional RM-UC1 Remote Cable Release?

The RM-UC1 has a sliding lock to lock the cable release for BULB exposures such as night photographs. When the lock is in the "Up" position, the camera shutter will remain open after the shutter button on the remote control is pressed. Slide the lock to the "Down" position to close the shutter.

The RM-UC1 is available from authorized Olympus dealers and also online directly from The Olympus Store.To order the RM-UC1, click here

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What is SDHC?

SDHC (Secure Digital High Capacity) is a type of removable flash memory card that is an outgrowth of the SD (Secure Digital) format. SDHC cards have the same form factor as SD cards, although they can store much more data - up to 32 GB.

SDHC cards come in a variety of capacities and speed classes. A speed class refers to how quickly data can be written to the card.

The E-P1 can support SD and SDHC media up to 16 GB. Cards must have a minimum speed class of 6 in order to record movies with the E-P1.

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After I attach a lens to the camera body, my camera seems unable to secure autofocus. The problem is intermittent but affects multiple lenses. Why is this happening?

If the problem occurs with every shot taken with every accessory lens, the camera may be broken. However, if the problem occurs sporadically – and chiefly only after attaching a lens – then it is possible the lens(es) may not have been attached properly.

Remove the lens from the camera and look at the silver mount. Eleven gold-colored pins are arranged below the mirror in an arc. These pins must make firm contact with the gold-colored touch points on the back of the lens. This happens naturally when the lens is attached properly, but if the lens is not locked into place then one or more pins may not receive sufficient pressure to maintain contact during use.

To attach a lens to the camera body, align the lens attachment mark (red circle) on the camera mount with the alignment mark (raised red knob) on the side of the lens. Then insert the lens into the camera’s body. Rotate the lens clockwise and listen for a click. The click is an audible indication that the lens lock pin has snapped into place on the back of the lens and has secured the lens in the proper position. The lens lock pin is the small silver pin on the lens mount in between the mirror and the lens release button.

Do not press or hold down the lens release button while attaching a lens to the mount. The lens release button forces the lens lock pin to retract into the camera so that the lens can be removed without breaking the pin. If the button is held down while attaching the lens, it may not align with the hole on the back of the lens after the button is released. This will result in a situation in which the lens is attached to the camera mount but is not locked into place. It is possible that this condition will prevent the lens from making and retaining a firm connection to the camera. This will inhibit autofocus and may increase the lag time between shots.

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When I'm shooting close-up subjects, I can see and hear the lens trying to focus, but it does not secure focus. What can I do?

If the lens seems to be unsuccessfully searching for a focus point, you may be too close to the subject matter for that particular lens. Lenses have a minimum focusing distance, and zoom lenses have different minimum focusing distances at different zoom settings. If you back away from the subject, the lens will focus at some point.

If you intend to do macro or close-up photography, you may want to invest in a lens specifically designed for macro shooting.

The E-System has two macro lenses:

  • The Zuiko® Digital 35 mm f3.5 Macro has a 35 mm format equivalent focal length of 70 mm and focuses from 5.75” (146 mm) to infinity.
  • The Zuiko Digital ED 50 mm f2.0 Macro has a 35 mm format equivalent focal length of 100 mm and focuses from 9.45” (240 mm) to infinity.

A Four Thirds lens-to-Micro Four Thirds lens adapter is required to mount these macro lenses on the E-P1. Olympus makes two such adapters: the MMF-1 (silver) and the MMF-2 (black). To order an adapter from Olympus, please visit The Olympus Store.

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When I put a formatted SD card in my E-P1, the display shows a capacity of RAW files that doesn't appear to be accurate. Why?

When the E-P1 saves a captured image as digital data and writes it onto the memory card, it performs complex mathematical calculations to convert the image into binary code data to be saved and later retrieved. Since images are unique, each calculation is unique. The manual for the E-P1 shows that a RAW file is approximately 14 megabytes. However, since the factors comprising each image are unique, each calculation is unique and the results of the calculation will vary. The E-P1 writes a lossless RAW file, and one of the ways it does this is by sampling some of the factors in the image. A winter landscape consisting of predominantly white snow and blue sky will produce a smaller data file than a scene such as Times Square at night. The richness of the latter scene will result in a larger file.

When the E-P1 polls a formatted SD card, it is looking at a blank slate. It has yet to do the math for any images and is programmed to start out with a conservative capacity estimate. As the camera shoots more images, it recalculates the capacity as it “learns” about the image files it is creating. As the card fills up, the estimated capacity of RAW files on the display will become more accurate.

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Why can't I reformat or record images to my SD card?

The SD card body has a write protect switch. If the switch is set to the "LOCK" side, you will not be able to add, modify or delete data on the card. The card cannot be formatted. Return the switch to the unlocked position to enable writing.

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On an assignment I used several memory cards. Now, when I'm downloading the images onto my computer and trying to save them, I get a message that says, "Image file_name.jpg already exists. Replace it with the new file?" What's going on?

The E-P1 has two settings for creating file names for the images it captures:

  • AUTO - Even when a new card is inserted, the folder numbers are retained from the previous card. If the new card contains an image file whose number coincides with one saved on the previous card, the new card’s file numbers start at the number following the highest number on the previous card.

    Put simply, the camera picks up where it left off when naming files.

  • RESET - When a new card is inserted, the folder numbers start at 100 and the file numbers start at 0001. If a card containing images is inserted, the file numbers start at the number following the highest file number on the card. If the card has been formatted, the file names will start with 0001.

    Put simply, the card starts naming files anew beginning at 0001. At some point, the computer will start seeing duplicate numbers. When multiple cards are downloaded in this setting, each duplicate file name will have to be renamed individually or else the like-named files will overwrite their predecessors when they are saved to the computer. The original images will no longer be viewable.

Another way to avoid this problem is to change the first character of the file name using the EDIT FILENAME function in the camera's RECORD/ERASE menu. This has an added benefit of identifying which camera captured each image.

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When my images are displayed on the E-P1's LCD screen, there are blinking red and blue areas in the image. How do I get rid of them?

What you are seeing is the HIGHLIGHT&SHADOW display option. In the lower left corner of the LCD screen, you will see a box that says SHADOW/HILIGHT. The blinking red regions identify areas in the image that have no detail due to overexposure (HILIGHT) and the blinking blue regions identify areas in the image that have no detail due to underexposure (SHADOW).

The blinking display doesn’t mean there is anything wrong with the camera. Like film cameras, digicams have a limited brightness range within which they can capture images. If the camera metering is weighted toward the highlights, there will be a lack of shadow detail. If the camera metering is weighted toward the shadows, there will be a lack of highlight detail. In bright sunshine, a picture may have areas lacking both highlight and shadow detail. On a grey, cloudy day, there may be detail throughout the image. The purpose of the black blinking areas is to give the photographer feedback about the exposures. If necessary, the photographer can apply options such as AE Bracketing or Exposure Compensation to reshoot the image.

The SHADOW/HILIGHT view is among five options that can be selected by pressing the [INFO] button while displaying images in Playback mode. Pressing [INFO] repeatedly cycles through the views, each of which displays different image information.

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When I try to use the AE Bracketing function, why do I only get one frame instead of the three I selected?

The camera's Drive mode is set to Single Frame shooting. Configured this way, which is the default setting, the shutter button must be pressed for each bracketed frame. If the Drive mode is set to the Sequential Shooting option, then pressing and holding down the shutter button will cause the camera to shoot all the bracketed frames in one burst.

In Sequential Shooting drive mode, images are captured at a rate of three per second for as long as the shutter button is held down.

To change the Drive mode, do the following:

  1. Press the [] button, located on the top of the camera.
  2. Using the sub dial to move the cursor, select either or .
  3. Press the [] button to activate the selected Drive mode.

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On the E-P1's LCD screen, I see the message "Internal camera temperature is too high. Please wait for cooling before camera use." Then the camera shuts off. What causes this message to appear?

As a safety measure, the E-P1 issues this message and shuts itself off whenever its internal temperature climbs too high. This may happen after frequent or continuous use of Live View or a shooting mode that captures many images in a short time, such as the Sequential Shooting drive mode. In these situations, the image sensor may not get a chance to cool off in between shots. The heat of the sensor raises the camera’s internal temperature. If it gets high enough, the camera must turn itself off. Once the camera has cooled for a few minutes, you will be able to resume shooting.

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My camera is connected to my TV with the video cable to play back my photos, but I don't see any images.

Most televisions have AV (Audio Visual) input channels (usually found below Channel 2) to play images and videos from digital cameras and camcorders. After connecting the camera to the TV, use the TV channel selector to move downward through the channels until you see the camera menu on the TV screen.

If the image quality on the TV screen appears to be distorted, the camera may be set to a video output format that is incompatible with that of the TV. In the camera's menu, check the VIDEO OUT setting. In North America, the setting should be NTSC.

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What type of HDMI cable do I need to play my images and movies on my HDTV?

A Type-C Mini HDMI cable, sold separately, is required.

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When attempting to install OLYMPUS Master 2 on a computer running Macintosh OS X 10.5.x ("Leopard"), I get the following error:The current user does not have administrative privileges. Log on as an administrator." What should I do?

Download the latest version of OLYMPUS Master 2 by clicking here. Run the installer file (OM211EN.dmg). This will overwrite the previous installation of OLYMPUS Master 2 and allow you to use the application in your environment.

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When attempting to install OLYMPUS Studio on a computer running Macintosh OS X 10.5.x ("Leopard"), I get the following error: "The current user does not have administrative privileges. Log on as an administrator." What should I do?

Download the latest version of OLYMPUS Studio by clicking here. Run the installer file (OS222EN.dmg). This will overwrite the previous installation of OLYMPUS Studio and allow you to use the application in your environment.

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